Don't Be Afraid, It's Just Korean

Long Island's first Korean restaurant is also its most unassuming: A small storefront with 10 tables--tucked away in the strip mall on Jericho Turnpike that boasts Fulton & Prime--that you've probably passed by hundreds of times on your way for Chinese takeout from May Loong.

There are a very small number of Korean restaurants on LI, and Syosset is fortunate to have Surasang. Catering mostly to the local Korean population (KBN plays on a TV in the corner) and not to the uninitiated, those curious to try something different may need an introduction to the cuisine. Well, let me introduce you to barbecued meats, fried chicken, dumplings and more.

Originally known as Yakitori House, owner Summy Lee took over a year ago, renamed it and changed the menu. She is everywhere at once: taking orders, greeting familiar faces at the door and after sizing me up, recommending Gal Bi Gui L.A Style ($15.95). Out comes a sizzling platter covered with marinated short ribs in sweet BBQ sauce. The waiter wields tongs and scissors, snipping bite-sized pieces of meat from the bones. I'm very happy with the tender meat, scooping up rice between bites. Goon Mandoo ($8.95) dumplings gets me 10 lightly fried pork and vegetable specimen, perfect with dipping sauce.

Another accessible dish for those still not sure is Korean Chicken (five pieces/$6.95, 15 pieces/$14.95). All the rage in Queens and Manhattan, it was recently added as a special. Sweet and sticky, it's double fried and finger-licking good. I order Bibimbap ($11.95), not just because I enjoy saying it--bibimbap,bibimbap--but because it's a traditional Korean dish. The colorful ingredients are arranged pretty as a picture over the rice. This version has minced beef, daikon radish, shitake mushrooms, carrot, bean sprouts and a fried egg over easy in the middle. Mix it up with soy sauce and maybe some rice vinegar (on every table), and you're all set.

Before every meal, as is tradition, an array of small dishes called Banchan is placed before us. Like little Korean salads, these small bites contain bean sprouts, shredded potato and carrot, the fermented cabbage called kimchi and shredded daikon, along with a few unknown treats. Everyone always starts nibbling on them as soon as they appear, but they're also supposed to be added to dishes throughout the meal.

A great way to fight a cold is with the spicy seafood soup called Sam Sun Jang Bong ($10.95). Red with peppers and filled with noodles, it has an enormous prawn in it, complete with head and tail mussels and scallops. I suggest asking for a glass or two of cold water before digging in. The hot tea served in a water glass won't really suffice.