Patsy's: Pizza Worth the Lawsuit

Long Island's only outlet of the legendary Patsy's Pizzeria sits in a former diner here in Syosset. The original Patsy's in East Harlem has been open since 1933. To make a very long story short: In 1991 Patsy's was sold and the name was licensed. Now there are a total of seven Patsy's in Manhattan and this franchise in Syosset.

Patsy's Restaurant on 56th Street in Manhattan (which is no relation and doesn't do pizza) decided to sue the Syosset Patsy's and not all the others, because they had just registered the name and wanted to flex their muscles. As part of the settlement, a sign on the front door explains that they are unaffiliated. Previously both Patsy's had sued each other over their bottled tomato sauces. And Patsy's of Harlem sued Patsy's in Brooklyn, causing Brooklyn Patsy's to be renamed Grimaldi's.

The original Patsy's is a landmark, playing an integral part in the early history of pizza which began as just another bakery offering at Lombardi's in Greenwich Village in the early 1900s. Our Patsy's holds true to the original, utilizing coal-fired ovens to make more than respectable crisp, thin-crust pies with a nice char (especially if you ask for char). It's a large space with two big rooms and upwards of 40 tables and booths.

But if you only order pizza from that hot coal-fired oven you're missing out on the terrific Italian loaves constantly emerging from the heat. The soft, almost flattened rolls are a big reason why I'm always knocked over by the interesting hero sandwiches. Tired of chicken parm? Try a Chicken Francese Hero ($7.95). Curiously, they add fresh mozzarella to the sandwich, and the lemon sauce wisely comes on the side to prevent soaking the incredible roll. Dip it and bite, dip it and bite.

I always find it difficult to get past the basic Margherita Pie ($9.50/$15.95). Fresh mozzarella melted with pomodoro tomatoes and graced with large fresh basil leaves--I don't need anything fancier. But if you do, you can try Clams Oreganata Pizza or a Carmelized Onion Pie. They even have one that would probably have Patsy Lancieri turning over in his grave, Caramel Apple Crisp Pie. Try the easy-to-like Popeye Salad ($8.95) made with baby spinach, bacon, mushrooms, blue cheese and walnuts. Chicken Marsala ($13.95) is nicely turned out, a generous portion that comes with pasta or salad.

They've got Peroni beer on tap, and here's a secret: If you're having dinner and don't want a whole pie, wander to the back counter and see if there's a pie sitting behind the glass. If there is you can buy it by the slice.